Top

Five great cities, five great restaurants

March 27, 2009 by Allen Greer · Leave a Comment 

We have searched the continental United States for the 5 best restaurants, but it wasn’t easy. Selections were made based on chef, atmosphere, service, menu, and last but not least, the food! Sure, there were dozens left off of the list, but we are confident that our top 5 are representative of fine dining at its pinnacle of excellence.

Our top 5 restaurants, as ritiqued by Gayot.com, a judge of excellence in the dining world for over 40 years, are as follows:

1. L’Espalier – Boston

2. Masa - New York

3. Joel – Atlanta

4. Tru – Chicago

5. Vetri - Philadelphia

See below for a detailed review of each establishment.

1. L’Espalier – Boston
Chef: Frank McClelland
Location:
30 Gloucester St., Boston, MA 02115
Price:
$$$$$
Atmosphere:
Intimate and timeless
Menu:
Contemporary French

Review by Gayot.com: L’Espalier doesn’t pretend to be anything it is not. It is relentless in its pursuit of perfection and fully committed to dining as an experience, not just an extended act of eating. From the moment one enters the wrought-iron front door of this Back Bay brownstone and begins the ascent to one of the three dining rooms—ask to be seated in the parlor or the seduction room—it is as if long-time chef-owner Frank McClelland has invited you into his home for a gala dinner. Time is all but suspended. This is why so many diners sit down, order Champagne, and green-light the kitchen to cook them a seven-course degustation without a moment’s hesitation. Though the tuxedoed waiters and name might suggest otherwise, L’Espalier is not the died-in-the-wool decadent French restaurant it was in the ’80s. Blessed as chef McClelland may be with an Escoffier-like handle on traditional haute techniques, his food soars because he is able to forge connections between the land and the professional kitchen without forsaking the merits of either one. While McClelland’s flavors tower highest when they are most visibly provincial French or regional American, his is an undeniably global cuisine in which curry and lemongrass pop up as much as brioche and hazelnuts. And he is justly famous for his foie gras preparations. We’re also amazed time and time again by the balletic service and wine director Erik Johnson’s knack for making the food here taste even better with one tip of a bottle (the wine list is, as you’d expect, boggling).

2. Masa - New York

Chef: Masayoshi Takayama
Location:
Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Cir.
Price:
$$$$$
Atmosphere:
Authentic and simple
Menu:
Best Japanese in America

Review by Gayot.com: What’s the price of glory? In the case of Masa, start with $350 per person, plus beverages, an automatic 18 percent service charge and NYC sales tax. So figure about $450 or more. But, if money’s no object in such matters, we absolutely, positively urge you to enjoy yourself at Masa, which is quite possibly the best Japanese restaurant in America. As you enter, you’ll notice the nicely lighted counter space is very simple and quite refined, though not much different looking than many other sushi counters around town. The smooth, beautiful counter is made from Masa’s favorite wood, hinoki, and all wood, stone and bamboo design elements, selected by architect Richard Bloch, have been specially brought in from Japan—as is most of the seafood at Masa. A mighty reputation precedes Masayoshi Takayama as the former sushi master at Beverly Hills’ Ginza Sushi-Ko, but a smiling, congenial Masa will stand before you, as he has sworn he will always be there. Of the many items we experienced, not one was less than stellar. Start with a little dish of shredded, pickled seafood. Next, toro (tuna belly) tartare with a touch of caviar and toast; the fish’s pristine quality and high fat content will drive you to crave another bite. But Masa also has other ideas: Sea bass with sprouts and aromatic leaves, vinegar and salt (which sushi chefs call namino hana, or flower of the waves), a dish that leaves a bitter-salty tingling sensation on the tongue, which lingers for minutes. A little bowl of foie gras and a sharp-toothed eel called hamo comes in a delicate soy broth, a signature Masa shabu-shabu-style dish that deserves its fame–the velvety foie gras barely melting in the broth, the fish adding briny nuance to the fatted morsel. Also available is an array of fabulous sushi of a quality we have rarely tasted in this country. If perfection comes at so high a price (with wine, a bill for two can easily reach $1000), it is an experience worth treasuring. Unfortunately, though, most people just don’t have the treasure to enjoy a meal at Masa very often.

3. Joël Antunes- Atlanta

Chef: Joël Antunes
Location:
The Piazza at Paces, 3290 Northside Pkwy. NW
Price:
$$$$$
Atmosphere:
Elegant and grand
Menu:
Classic French with a modern twist

Review by Gayot.com: A native of Volvic, France, where the famous water surges from a volcano, Joël Antunes already was a celebrity in London before coming to The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead. Established in his own eponymous restaurant, with its contemporary decor and expansive windows, the young chef and his largely French crew deliver stunning dishes. But the first treat is a visual one: The dining room’s sleek lines are warmed by richly burnished woods while contemporary soaring spaces are made dramatic by limited use of color. With its 12-foot-long stove, the kitchen is a stage-set. Despite the seriousness of the equipment and purpose, Antunes retains his playful manner. He cooks using chiefly reductions or jus, and dishes blend traditional cooking methods and materials with the exotic seasonings he discovered while working in Asia. Soups are astounding, relying for their impact on pristine jewel-like stocks done in a classically correct manner, sometimes with precisely cooked crisp vegetables or perhaps a bone marrow dumpling their sole adornment. The cool, and very traditional, gazpacho with tomato sorbet has become a year-round signature dish. Desserts are stellar, inventive and light, but often rich. The wine list, crafted by Philippe Buttin, takes risks, offering, for instance, Gruet’s vintage New Mexico sparkling wine and numerous fine choices from South Africa, as well as a wide range of Gevrey Chambertin. Without doubt, this is a dining experience of world-class proportions.

4. Tru – Chicago

Owner: Rick Tramonto
Location:
676 N. St. Clair St., Chicago, IL 60611
Price:
$$$$$
Atmosphere:
Chic and minimalistic
Menu:
Progressive French

Review Gayot.com: The cuisine here, which owners Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand type as being progressive French, is to die for. It is splendidly creative, but emanates from a position of intelligence and know-how. This is food that is immaculate in its conception, precise in its presentation, and perfectly realized in taste and flavor. For example, the caviar service is incredible. The presentation takes place on what amounts to a staircase miniature in glass with the steps holding the various caviar accoutrements. There is so much to enjoy and experience here. Black truffle risotto with fava beans and lobster as well as Muscovy duck carpaccio are presented on a square of marble. The lemongrass-steamed Icelandic salmon gave us pause to savor the goodness after each luscious bite. Desserts, which are the forte of Ms. Gand, are splendid. Gand mixes together a strong sense of purpose with a bit of whimsy. Roasted pineapple carpaccio is one example. And the not-your-usual lemon meringue pie (the pie being layers of crust and sauce and puffy meringue) is a marvelous creation. Tru offers four dinner options: three-course, multicourse vegetable collection, a seafood collection, and the grand collection, an extravaganza that give the kitchen complete control. The setting is as smart as the cuisine. Crisp white cloths cover tables that are spaced for privacy and the minimalist chic decor is as chic as the patrons who are eating this place up with a spoon, and that’s the truth.

5. Vetri - Philadelphia

Chef: Mark Vetri
Location:
1312 Spruce St., Philadelphia, PA 19107
Price:
$$$$$
Atmosphere:
Romantic
Menu:
Unexpected Italian

Review by Gayot.com: Chef Marc Vetri settled into this small space on Spruce Street, which formerly housed the restaurants of Georges Perrier (Le Bec Fin), Bruce Lim (Ciboulette) and Philippe Chin (Philippe’s on Locust), and he seemed determined to follow in their footsteps. Guests must call six weeks ahead of time for a reservation, and a chance to taste Vetri’s cauliflower flan with a poached egg, pasta with a rabbit ragù, his splendid (with a secret ingredient), and his almond cake with a pineapple sauce. Vetri spent a number of years in Italy and New York perfecting his distinctive style, which combines the best products available with unexpected and original touches. Though the quarters are diminutive, we like the rustic Italian feel to the little room. We also praise the personalized service and nice selection of Italian wines. Vetri is a convenient restaurant for pre-theater dining, but we wager that you’ll want to linger here.

Bottom